INSPIRATION (Part 1: fabrics)

I'm often asked "how" I create, where my ideas come from.  You would think they were simple questions to answer, but not so, at least, not for me.

First and foremost it's my fabric selection that inspires me.  I just adore fabric, particularly natural fibres like wool, linen and silk. Natural fibres are so wonderful to work with; not necessarily easy, but so satisfying from a finishing point of view. When I visit my two main fabric suppliers it's like being let loose in a michelin star restaurant after a day or two of fasting! I generally have no idea when I go in what my collection will be, colour- or style wise, and I start with a full walk around of the stock to see what they have to offer. Then there's a second tour, where I'll touch the fabrics that appeal to me, and check prices with the supplier. Rolls are pulled out and put on the cutting table, and at the end of that tour the preselection is done.  A little bit of refining (usual financial) and the actual selection is done.

Fabrics for AW13-14

By that stage, the new collection is already forming in my head. My style designing is always inspired directly from a fabric. And it's often the inspiration that just one fabric gives me that sets the whole collection. Imagine the Okavango Delta flooding after the rains;  that arrival of the rains from the top left corner is that one inspirational fabric that gives rise to all the variations that make up the final collection.

The weight and drape of a fabric is crucial in my style choice.  For example, I'm a huge fan of bias cut garments and this needs a fabric with the right weight/density ratio to work well.  I also love sculptural clothing, meaning clothing that almost stands on its own, without a body inside it.  This necessitates a fabric with body and a closer weave.  Of course, this process is done pretty well unconsciously now, having been honed by my 40 years of sewing experience.

My signature bias cut dress on the left and the sculpural jackets on the right.

Then there's texture.  I love mixing textures within a garment; mixing matt and metallic linen within the same dress.

SS13 Collection

Or applying matt hand felted woollen strips to wool & cashmere fabric, that has a lovely satin pile. Then add felt onto the felt strips to get even more texture.  This particular idea in the photo below was a recent solution to a problem caused by a child tearing a couple of the holes, but looks so amazing it's given me lots of ideas for the Winter 2014-15 collection.  It really is true that the best ideas come from mistakes or problem solving.

Next week I'll talk more about how the designs themselves come together for each collection.  Have a great week.

Beverly

Designer Collaboration

You all know that I'm a huge a fan of South African design and craft, and for this winter's collection I worked again with Stephanie Bentum of KRAFTHAUS to create a range of clothing with hand felted decorative edgings.  Last year's range was a huge success and so this year we developed the idea further using this year's colours.

This is a limited edition collection. Every piece is a one-off, matching hand made and dyed merino wool textured felting with my selection of pure wool and cashmere fabrics, to create sculptural garments that stand out from the crowd.

CAPE TOWN CREATIVITY

Back from Cape Town and WHAT an amazing trip.  Binky, my wonderful hostess, had my bedroom ready and waiting, the clothing I leave there all freshly washed and ironed, new satellite TV installed (which, as those of you who know me well will be surprised to hear I didn't watch once (didn't have time!)) and she was bursting with her usual enthusiasm for my projects, her projects and anything inbetween.

This was a particularly satisfying trip in that as well as finding more lovely jewellery to sell in the shop this coming year, I have succeeded in making the link between my clothing designs and some of the beautiful work coming out of Cape Town.  The first great news I had on arrival was that Binky has assembled a group of knitters/crocheters; I have wanted to get my knitwear made in Cape Town ever since I went there the first time, and now Binky has made it happen.  Teresa, Francina and Claudette are refugees from Rwanda; they knit, crochet, bead, weave.  So clever.

From L to R : Teresa, Claudette and Francina

We spent several days together working on my designs as well as brainstorming projects for Binky, and here are some of the results. Beautiful handknitted pieces, no two the same.

I wore them around while I was there and got a great reception, so that led me to thinking that I might be able to market my knitwear designs in South Africa.  To this end, Binky put me in touch with Helon Melon, a well know Cape Town designer, and we are in full collaboration mode as I write.  Between South Africa and France I should be able to keep at least one of the knitters in full time work; that's my goal anyway.  

Second project dear to my heart:  I met up with Stephanie from Krafthaus and she is going to make and supply me with handmade felted woollen edgings for my coats, dresses and who knows what else!  Watch out for the results in my Winter 2012 range. This is one of her gorgeous creations, just to give you some idea how lovely her work is.

And finally, I shall be using the beautiful fine crochet work produced by Projekt as decoration on my dresses.  Doesn't this look wonderful?  Peta Becker runs the group which provides income to more than 28 women from Imizamo Yethu, (the informal settlement in Hout Bay, Cape Town). Working with 100% cotton, they focus on providing excellent contemporary design.

And then there are the fabrics I've brought back for the 2012 collection ....

And some of the jewellery ...

So you see, it was HUGE success!